The Milan shows have ended, but before we change gears and start thinking about the Paris shows to come, we thought we’d take a moment to share some of the looks that we simply cannot stop thinking about.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
“Magliano was the sleeper hit of Milan for me: the pajamas-for-day stylings, the color palette, the jewelry. Very seductive mix.” – Nicole Phelps
Photo: Courtesy of 4SDesigns
“I haven’t stopped thinking about Angelo Urrutia’s skirt-short hybrids at 4SDesigns since he showed me them on Zoom last week. The pink fils coupé brocade overshorts make a great skirt when the central seam is unsnapped, but I especially love how Urrutia styled the skirt over a pair of silver eyelash tweed shorts with a workshirt, and a mother of pearl placard. Totally luxurious, and totally wearable.” – Steff Yotka
Photo: Courtesy of Brioni
Photo: Mikael Niemi / Courtesy of Rolf Ekroth
“There was an embarrassment of riches to choose among the looks in Milan. In the end I was seduced by the saint-to-sinner range of B+ by Umit Benan, who managed to combine louche touches like puddling hems and seductively falling waistbands with clerical references. The Morandi palette of this Brioni look captured, for me, the heat of Rome in summer. Shout outs also to my Nordic friends Rolf Ekroth and Our Legacy who headed south for spring, with lots of good looks. The former offered an olive leaf of sorts via a friendship bracelet ensemble that took over 500 hours of handwork. It’s a good reminder to give peace a chance.” – Laird Borrelli-Persson
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
“When this came down the JW Anderson runway of course I immediately typed SpongeBob into my notes document. But by the time I got to writing the review back at my apartment I was all wrapped up in the designer’s cogitations on the motivations behind this collection and totally forgot about SpongeBob. So this was not only a strong Milan look, but a useful lesson in going over your notes one more time.” – Luke Leitch
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
“This was my personal favorite look at Etro. But it was also part of a collection that came with a real tug at the heartstrings. After nigh on three decades designing Etro menswear, this was Kean Etro’s last ever collection for the house. He came out at the end to the closer in his all David Byrne soundtrack, and scooped up his sister Veronica – who has been designing the womenswear – to finish the walk with him. Marco De Vincenzo is an exciting appointment as successor and the Etro siblings have served their family house extremely well, but it was poignant nonetheless.” – LL
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
“Yes please to all of this Fendi. Weirdly for summer this was a super strong denim season in Milan. Prada’s and Alyx’s I was both into, plus Wales Bonner’s at Pitti. But Fendi’s was next level.” – LL
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
“At Emporio Armani, perfect post-tailoring semi-formal.” – LL
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
“Despite the stifling heat, mood in Milan was upbeat! Energetic! Childish! Eat your apple! Show your legs! Naughty! Bondage Black leather & ric rac! Contrasts! JW Anderson versus Miuccia & Raf at Prada! Alessandro Michele & Harry Styles! Donatella versus Zegna! Italians do it better!” – Tiziana Cardini
Photo: Courtesy of B+ Umit Benan
“Umit Benan presented a collection full of clothes that capture the exact essence of how I want to dress. Oversized silhouettes, knits half-tucked with ease, and even my favorite shade of butter yellow all took center stage. But it was a crisp white button down shirt with an exaggerated tie detail at the waist, worn with cream pleated trousers that made my heart sing and has me trying to figure out how to recreate the look at home—an impossible feat.” – Laia Garcia-Furtado
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com
“At Wales Bonner I spotted satin shorts underneath a khaki blazer worn with sneakers and socks pulled all the way up. It’s so wrong it’s exactly, completely, right.” – LGF
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
“I’m clearly very into jeans this season, and these JW Anderson ones might be my favorites so far. The four pockets and double waistband are a nice and playful detail that lean into the trompe l’oeil exploration he’s been working on recently. The second waistband creating the low pockets just at the natural arm length plays nicely with the relaxed baggy cut; and the bike handlebar styling humorously nods to the ready-made sensibility Jonathan has been engaging with the last few seasons both here and at Loewe.” – José Criales-Unzueta
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com
“This Wales Bonner look represents the current direction of menswear so well. It’s fluid and androgynous in its styling and cut without being overtly flamboyant or butch. The jeans are deliciously cut and the cuff detail perfectly weighs them down at the hem to create a nice unconventional break. The elongated shirt is almost a shirtdress but not quite, a hint of androgyny there, and the single closed button at the top speaks to this midriff skin-baring trend without going too hard into it. It’s sensual, simple, chic, and just really great styling and cut.” – JCU
Photo: Isak Berglund Mattsson-Mårn / Courtesy of Our Legacy
“At Our Legacy: a neon bomber jacket paired with otherwise sleek pants and accessories? Say less!” – Irene Kim